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To Thailand

posted Oct 18, 2012, 12:40 AM by Sue Norris   [ updated Apr 14, 2013, 9:43 PM ]
Journey to Thailand.

What a wonderful 10 days we had travelling through the islands of Southern Thailand to Phuket and Ao Chalong, the home of cruising.

Finally the skies were clear and the weather fine. We checked the boat out of Malaysia with the Harbour master at Telaga Harbour, then we went to Customs and Immigration – well tried to – the Customs man did not arrive at work that day – or the next – so we caught a cab to Kuah Town and checked out with Customs and Immigration there.

When we returned we lifted the anchor, and bade farewell to Malaysian waters. We enjoyed Malaysia, the gentle people and their quiet lifestyle.

It is not far to Thailand. We motor-sailed to Koh Lipe in the Butang group to spend our first night in Thai waters. It was a beautiful calm night and clear sunny morning. The island looked inviting – long tails and resorts scattered along the white sand beaches.

The  beautiful island of Koh Lipe
Over the next few days we island hopped through the islands with exotic names and even more exotic landscapes above and below the water. The diving here was superb – the clearest water we have seen since Indonesia. The coral was a bit degraded in some places but the sea-life made up for it – there were fish by the millions. All shapes and sizes. Our best finds were the enormous stingray lurking on the bottom and the moray eels we saw peeking out of their caves. Butterfly and parrot fish were everywhere and the giant clams with their colourful lips ranged in size from small to enormous in a wide range of colours – if they are a litmus test for the health of the reef systems they seem to be doing well.















Boat maintenance in exotic locations


Further north the geology changed from granite to limestone and the iconic karst landforms that are the signature of Phang – na Bay east of Phuket, the water became less clear but the scenery was spectacular. Koh Phetra, a limestone ridge 377m high was a stunning anchorage.

 




 
 

Looking north to the island of Koh Phetra as we                                                                            approached. The anchorage is to the east


A lonely bird nesters hut nestled on the rocks at Koh Phetra. It is one of the main birdnesting islands in the area. Birds nests from the swiftlet are used in Chinese medicines and cosmetics and are very valuable. The collectors fiercely guard their rock.

Our first visit ashore was on the island of Koh Muk where we walked through the local village and were reassured by the signs that let everyone know where to go in the event of a tsunami. This place was badly damaged in 2004. The village and resorts on the sandy spit are on very flat land, although there are some higher hills here too. The main industry here seems to be fishing, but there were rubber and coconut plantations as well, and there is the beginning of a tourist industry.

signs of the times in Koh Muk

Our next destination was the tourist Mecca, Koh Phi Phi Don, again damaged badly in the 2004 tsunami but there is little evidence of it now. Thousands of people arrive there every day and stay at the myriad resorts lining the beaches. It is hard to find a quiet anchorage here now. The dive charter boats have taken up residence along one wall of the main bay and there are hundreds of other fast speed boats and longtails vying for business to take dive tourists to the caves and bays of Koh Phi Phi Le only a few km away. It is a bit sad that there is virtually nowhere on this magnificent island that can be visited without being crowded out by the many tourist operations. But there are other islands. We will find them while we are in Thailand.

Colourful longtails at Koh Phi Phi Don waiting for customers

Then it was on to Phuket to Ao Chalong where we anchored amongst the moorings and went ashore to officially check in to Thailand. We have discovered the Phuket Cruising Yacht Club – a friendly joint where the beer is cold the food excellent and the water there sometimes. The dinghies are safe and the welcome is cheerful. The wet market is nearby, pork is easily available and the food is great

from Phuket Cruising Yacht Club - where did the water go??

Anchorages from Telaga Harbour to Ao Chalong

Location name

Position

Distance

Anchoring depth

comments

Koh Lipe

N 06º 29.907

E 99º 18.690

25.4nm

5.8m

Quite open between the islands. Very quiet but not a lot of protection. Current quite strong.

Koh Butang

N 06º 30.250

E 99º 11.056

7.8nm

Mooring (National Parks) in 17.8m

3 moorings here. Great place for day or on a calm night. Beware barnacles on mooring buoy. Wonderful clear water and good snorkelling around the small islands near the light tower. Current quite strong.

Koh Rawi


Our favourite

N 06º 33.198

E 99º 15.029

6.8nm

Mooring National Parks in 6m

Between Adang Island and Rawi. Off palm fringed beach. Crystal clear water. Strong current. Excellent snorkelling without the crowds. Amazing range of fish. Well protected from W and SW

Koh Phetra

N 07º 01.437

E 99º 28.622

34.6nm

5.8m

Behind the island protected from the west. V shallow around – close to island deeper. Stunning scenery. 377M high. Beaches on east side -

Koh Muk

N 07º 21.451

E 99º 18.403

26.4nm

2.5m

SE corner before the cable crossing. Village in corner resorts along spit. V shallow toward village at low tide. Protected from w.

Koh Phi Phi Don

N 07º 43.510

E 98º 46.185

41nm

13m

On W wall protected from west, but charter dive companies have monopolised the wall and it is hard to find somewhere to anchor in reasonable depth that is not in their way. Amongst the moorings OK if you give the moored boats enough room.

Koh Phi Phi Don (Ao Loh Moo Dee)

N 07º 43.510

E 98º 46.185

1.2nm

11m

E coast of island, beach just around corner form Ton Sai Bay. V busy with charter boats during the day, but calmer at night.

Ao Chalong, Phuket

N 07º 49.412

E 98º 21.211

27nm

2m

large bay, sheltered from the ocean. Very shallow E of the “Lighthouse” restaurant







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